Are there any tips you can provide to help me remember to change my iso setting for indoor and outdoor shots.
I really dont want to put a label on my camera that says "check iso idiot."
But when I looked at them on the pc they were way too noisy and really bright. I was shooting raw and in program mode.
For noise, I like Noise Ninja. Miracle software...
I did something even more stupid. I turned my image size down to SMALL at the last zoo I shot to take pictures of signs and forgot to turn it back up. Fortunately, when I got to some shots I REALLY wanted I switched to RAW which ignores the file size settings... still, it was inane of me to do that.
ROFL :lol:
If you look at the LCD after the shot, it didn't look too light and grainy?
This has been an issue for several years...and the newer models now have the ISO displayed in the viewfinder info.
Also, if you are shooting 3 stops faster than normal...usually it's pretty obvious.
800 ISO isn't that bad...well...on my camera it's usable...
That screen also displays the ISO...although it may be hard to pick out in the jumble of info.
Unless you were shooting in manual mode, the images should not have been brighter because you were shooting at ISO 800. The aperture and/or shutter speed would have compensated for that.
I did the exact same thing myself while shooting my friend's wedding reception. (not a pro gig, just some friend shots) When I got home and looked at the pics, they were all noisy. I don't think of them as ruined or anything because I don't mind grain/noise myself, but they would've been nicer if I shot at the lower ISO. (I was using flash.. grrr..)
For non nikon users that is quite fitting :mrgreen:
Anyway seriously. I have taken quite number of shots of a chair in the backyard for the sake of testing the ISO differences.
Shot1 ISO 200,
shot2 ISO 400
shot3 ISO 800
shot4 ISO 1600
shot5 ISO 3200
Than I cropped the main object (chair) in the frame and enlarge it to fit the screen for each ISO. ISO 200 and 800 hard to tell which is which. 1600 still good but I see it differed from ISO 200. I won't try 3200 unless I really have to.
For noise, I like Noise Ninja. Miracle software...Yeah just get some NR software and don't worry about it.
Get a Nikon :thumbup: auto iso rocks :Dhehe :mrgreen:
When I was shooting a dodge viper show, I whipped out my 50mm 1.8 to get the shot below, set the aperture to 1.8, and fired away. The first shot totally didn't work, because my iso (400) was too high. It was a bright day shooting a white car, so ISO 400 + f/1.8, plus maxed out at 1/8000th of a second...was too bright. I had to dumb it down to ISO 100. Even at that, this shot was taken at f/1.8, ISO 100, 1/8000th of as econd.
Anyway, it was a duck. Ducks around here are white...at least the annoying ducks with a huge bubble on their beak. So, an XT with a max shutter speed of 1/4000th, if combined with a large aperture, high iso and a sunny day...could be the problem. (I shoot in AV a lot)
This is likely not the case, but I just didn't want him to completely rule it out quite yet.
http://keith204.smugmug.com/photos/214850481-S-1.jpg
Notes don't really work for me, I have way too many of them already.:geek:
I have a EOS Digital Rebel...at ISO 800, the shots are not great. They're not terrible, but you can definitely tell if you are used to looking at photos. They are noisy and flat.
I have since forced myself to check the ISO and WB EVERY time I turn on my camera before I shoot. It only takes 2 seconds to check.
Like Sideburns said I should have noticed when I was shooting 3 stops faster than normal. Now that I think of it, it really should have clicked when I took one real sunny shot at 1/4000 sec and the meter was still reading slightly overexposed. Major beginner's mistake!
Canon 40D, 1d MkIII, 1Ds MkIII!!
FTW!
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